This pre-polish takes dull, chalky and spotted aluminum to a uniform, satin finish.
BLACKFIRE Heavy Cut Aluminum Polish is designed to restore weathered, chalky, dull, and spotted bare metals. It can be used with great results on aluminum, brass, copper, magnesium, and blended metals. As step 1 in the BLACKFIRE Metal Polishing System, BLACKFIRE Heavy Cut Aluminum Polish removes surface rust from chrome and stains from stainless steel. It's the first step in restoring a mirror-shine to bare metals.
This is the workhorse of the BLACKFIRE Metal Polishing System. This is the polish that does the heavy correction. If we were working on paint, this product would be called a compound. Technically, BLACKFIRE Heavy Cut Aluminum Polish is a pre-polish. It's to be used before a gloss-restoring polish. It creates a uniform, SATIN finish ready for "Step Two", gloss polishing. It quickly removes surface rust from chrome and will buff out harsh stains in stainless steel. This is an ammonia-based paste, packed with diminishing-abrasives, formulated to stick to vertical surfaces to make large panel polishing quick and easy.
WARNING: Do not use on plated or anodized metals or on painted or clear coated metals.
BLACKFIRE Heavy Cut Aluminum Polish is designed to deliver the best results when buffed with an Acrylic Wool Pad on a rotary polisher.
Application Instructions: (Circular/rotary Machine Polisher)
- Work on areas of 2-3 sq. ft., out of direct sunlight if possible.
- Wipe a thin coat of Heavy Cut Aluminum Polish on the surface (just like waxing your car) using a dry Microfiber Applicator Pad.
- Use a dry, 8-1/2 inch Acrylic Wool Pad on your circular machine polisher. Set the speed to 1,500 rpm.
- Using firm pressure, go over the entire area once using a left-to-right motion. Then go over the entire area a second time using an up-and-down motion. A black residue will form on aluminum, brass and copper. On chrome or stainless steel, buff until stains are gone.
- Wipe off black residues and inspect the surface. If surface has a uniform, satin finish, continue to the next 2 sq. ft. area. If spotting, staining or surface irregularities are still visible, repeat the polishing procedure.
- Polishing aluminum is time consuming and DIRTY work. The wool pads are designed to "lint". The cast-off strands will cover everything. Always wear old clothes and an apron if you have one, eye protection (safety goggles) and rubber gloves. Eye protection is essential. The lint flying around during buffing is impregnated with polish residues and metallic particles. You don't want to get this in your eyes.
- At some point, the wool pads will cake with black residues, causing them to become ineffective. When this happens, "fluff" the wool using a stainless steel brush or spurring tool. Place the machine on the floor (or ground) with the pad facing up. Set the speed control to the lowest speed setting. Hold the machine down with your foot.
- Use one hand to turn the machine on and your other hand to hold the brush or spurring tool against the pad's surface. It only takes a few seconds for the wool pad to fluff up so you can continue polishing. Pads can usually be "fluffed" three or four times before they become so black that they must be replaced with a fresh pad.
- Before you start polishing, fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and put in two McKee's 37 Polishing Pad Rejuvenator pad cleaning packets. When you remove a blackened wool pad from your machine, immediately put it in the bucket to soak. Never let blackened residues dry in the pad. Do the same with your buffing cloths. When they become blackened with residues, throw them in the bucket to soak.
- Always apply polish to the surface. Never apply polish directly to the wool pad. Always use a dry pad. Never spray the pad with water or use a pad still damp from cleaning.
- You will always use more pre-polish than finishing polishes. A one pound can should do a 16 ft Airstream trailer but if the finish is excessively dull or spotted, get a second can of pre-polish. You cannot "spot polish" aluminum like you can paint. The polished area will always have a different gloss. Once you start with a pre-polish, you must continue polishing the entire area.
- Have extra wool pads. You typically cannot stop working, wash a wool pad and wait for it to dry. If you're good, you might do a 16 ft Airstream with three pads, but you are more likely to require 5 pads. Beginners typically apply too much polish which requires you to change pads more often.
- After polishing in a left-to-right and up-and-down pattern, you need to wipe off residues with a cloth and inspect the finish. You can wipe the finish with an IPA solution. This removes the residues quicker and you can wipe more area before the towel must be replaced with a clean towel.
- If polishing trim on a vehicle, mask off adjacent paintwork.
Pre-polishing with a dual-action machine polisher:
Rotary polishers will always do a faster and better job but dual-action machines like the Porter Cable 7424XP can make a significant improvement. They will certainly make the surface look better but may not have the cutting power to remove deeper spots, stains and blemishes.
If using a Porter Cable 7424XP, use our 6-1/2 inch Acrylic Wool Pads (the 8-1/2 inch wool pads are too heavy for the counterweight used in the 7424 and could result in motor failure). This pad requires that your 7424 Polisher be fitted with a 6 inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate. Set the Porter Cable's speed control at the maximum speed. Follow the same instructions as outlined above for a rotary/circular machine polisher.
You can also fluff wool pads using the Porter Cable 7424XP polisher using a stainless steel brush or spurring tool but you must use a very light pressure on the pad. Exerting too much pressure with the brush will stop the pad from rotating.
After Pre-polishing: Pre-polishing should leave the finish with a uniform, satin finish. You are now ready for Step Two, polishing with BLACKFIRE Fine Cut Aluminum Polish to create a high gloss finish.