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P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner

P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner

Our Price: $10.70
Item ID: PS-G320P
Availability: Usually ships the same business day
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Quickly lifts dirt and dissolves dirt!

P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner uses citrus derivatives to break down grease and pull dirt from your carpet and upholstery quickly and effectively. P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner is step #2 in the Double Black Interior Cleaner System, but can also be used on its own. P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner is formulated using biodegradable cleaners and water based solvents to ensure that your carpet and upholstery are not damaged in the process.

Grease and dirt stains on your interior carpet and upholstery can incredible difficult and tiring to properly remove. Scrubbing alone will not be able to effectively get rid of those stains and spots, you will need to use a high-quality cleaner like P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner to ensure that those stains and spots are removed entirely.

P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner uses all natural citrus derivatives, biodegradable cleaners, and water based solvents to dissolve grease and lift dirt. This means that you will not have to worry about any potential damage toy our carpet and upholstery while trying to clean it. P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner was also formulated with a deodorizing agent to remove the smell along with the stain!

Dilute P&S Bomber Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner 5 to 8:1 with water depending on the strength needed. Before application, dry brush and vacuum the carpet and upholstery. Apply a light mist to the area you are working on. Allow the product to sit for 3 minutes while using a carpet brush to agitate. Once you are finished, vacuum the carpet and upholstery.

16 oz.

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Review Summary
4 Reviews
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100% Recommend this product (4 of 4 responses)
Crofton MD
I keep this on me when cleaning interior
I'm glad I pulled the trigger on P&S products. Even better I got it on sale! It works very well. I mainly used it as a stand-alone product.
A Staple in the Stable
I use this religiously. Every time I was my cars, I always use this after a vacuum on the mats to keep them fresh and clean. Nothing wears out carpets and mats like that micro dirt that gets ground in and holds smells. This rids the smell and keeps the mats and carpets looking new.
Louisville, KY
One of the absolute BEST value's in carpet-upholstery cleaning in the detailing world
All of P&S products are fantastic (Including their Double Black Renny Doyle line). The best benefit to P&S and Renny Doyle products are PRICE. You get such a great value and get products that work very well and do exactly what they are supposed to. I have many of the P&S products and I am still amazed at how well they work, how good they smell, and what a great value I got when I bought them. P&S products would be an absolute MUST for a professional detailer or even a weekend detailing wanting to do a little business on the side. These products are PERFECT for detailers whether a shop based business or mobile detailer. Stay away from the higher priced products. P&S has just about everything you need in chemicals for detailing. Get the gallon sizes (SUPER VALUE!!!), and then put the remaining proceeds from your detailing ventures into your pocket or bank account! Couple this particular cleaner with the Enzyme cleaner and you've got a one two punch that will knock down about any stain or odor with ease, even if you do need to "pre treat" a spot stain that may be REALLY bad but it's usually not necessary. This is great stuff folks, it really is. It's one of the best values in carpet/upholstery cleaning in the entire detailing world. I challenge anyone to try and find a better value for a GALLON of this stuff! ONE GALLON for the price they charge, it's worth every single penny, pound, cent, dabloon, or whatever else cha gots! I usually always team it up with their ENZYME, Blackfire Enzyme, Poor Boy's World Enzyme, or any other quality enzyme fabric cleaner. The ENZYME element is what destroy's the ODORS (if you have any) but it also goes after other organic stains such as old food, spilled liquids. Mix up a ratio to your liking and you can even use this as an interior cleaner on ALL surfaces. I know, it says "test first in inconspicuous area" which I do agree with and do myself usually under the seat from the back pushed forward so I can get the middle of the unknown fabric being tested, remember to "test" the area in an area of the fabric you're cleaning. Many make the mistake to test on carpet and then spray it all over a seat with a totally differernt material and then sit back and their eyes go crossed and they scream "Oh, what happens now?" Test spots are critical for fabrics you don't know. Once you start knowing the different fabrics, you don't have to test anymore. Remember, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, do a quick 2 minute test for colorfastness and bleading. While i've rarely seen it happen in 40+ years of detailing everything from Army vehicles, and fleet vehicles of ALL different types including AIRCRAFT! Yep, Helicopters and Airplanes with both shinny finish and matte finishes, including battle drab designed paint which had a very unique texture to try and clean. OK, mix you up a bottle of this stuff and follow the recommended radio for dilution. Do the same for the ENZYME cleaner. Mix the two portioned products into a quality sprayer (I prefer the smaller 1/2 liter KWAZAR sprayer bottle which delivers product on the first pull stroke and the release stroke so you are getting more product down quickly. Plus the KWAZAR bottles are some of the best ones made for detailing. If you haven't tried those, I'd go get one of each color in both sizes. They are valuable additions to your detailing tool arsenal, especially for interior cleaning. Another one I've started experimenting with is the new IK pump sprayers and those are great too and hold a lot of product. P&S now has there own IK sprayer for a great price. Start to spray down the seat, carpet, upholstery, carpeted floor liner, rear cargo fabric liner, hood liner, etc with the mix. Leave for approximately 10 minutes. You may wish to but a large microfiber or terry towel down over the seats and dash board area on luxury cars or ones you want to protect more if you spray down the headliner, it may drip a little during the 10 minute wait, but it USUALLY DOES NOT, so don't worry about it too much. Take a carpet safe SOFT bristle brush designed for fabric cleaning and start to agitate the surface. Use straight line back and forth strokes as much as possible, not circular unless you really need to agitate a spot stain. Back and forth straight line strokes reduces the risk (if any) of damaging the fibers of the fabric. I have seen OLDER more worn out fabrics fray a bit, but that is very rare. Just use caution when agitating with the brush, use a quality brush, don't cheap out here! You definitely DO NOT want a very stiff brush. Stay to the softer side with a little stiffness to actually be able to agitate the product to get it to do it's job and really get the surface you are cleaning thoroughly clean. It may take more than one application or product or repetition of the agitation process. Some detailers now like to use a microfiber cloth (misted with the cleaning mix) to continue an agitation of product in the area you are working. Keep folding to reveal clean sides of the microfiber as needed. You should notice the microfiber pulling out the grunge, dirt, oils, and stains at this point. Finally, follow up with a clean dry microfiber and vigorously scrub the surface you just cleaned and agitated. It should pull up a good amount of the liquid you used in the cleaning process. If the cloth looks soiled, that's a good thing, you're getting the gunk out of the fabric, upholstery, or carpet you are cleaning. Flip the dry microfiber and continue to vigorously rub back and forth to "extract" or "soak up" as much of the cleaning solution as you can. This process is critical. You don't want the dirty chemical drying up on the surface with the same dirt you are trying to remove OFF. You may need to do that several times to get an area clean. Just repeat all the processes until the area is clean to your satisfaction. Now, fabric clean, and as much liquid out of the fabric, you should really spray a "finisher" product on the area to help prevent "RESOILING" the area you just cleaned. That's when you see the stain or dirt come back a few days (or even weeks) later and you think you've wasted your time and probably say a few unrepeatable curse words to yourself. P&S makes an inexpensive Peroxide based "FINISHER" product that works great and is a great value too! Buy a gallon, it's cheap and the gallon size is the value of the century! Just a light mist onto the fabric all over the area you just cleaned and let air dry. DONE. You could stop there doing the method by hand as most driveway detailers do, OR, you can move on to a mechanical extraction process at this point. The mechanical extraction is basically just for sucking out the cleaning product as much as possible so you get an almost dry surface. It drys much faster which is good if you need to give back a vehicle to a customer or friend your doing a detail for, OR, you yourself needs to go somewhere soon after your cleaning adventure. Fill your tank on your extractor with HOT water. As hot as you can get it without damaging the machine. I tend to heat up my water on the stove in large pots to just before boiling. Remember, hot water COULD heat up the hoses too so you may need gloves to avoid being burned by hot water but i've not had a problem. HOT or very very warm water tends to work better extracting out the residual cleaning chemicals. Many novices will inject chemicals into the seat using the machine which then sucks out the cleaning chemical right away. The problem with that method is that the cleaning chemical is never really fully extracted and residual chemical remains in the cloth-fabric-carpet being cleaned. By pre spraying the chemical, waiting 10 minutes, agitating with a safe brush, and wiping with a microfiber cloth, you've essentially done all the cleaning prior to using the hot water to EXTRACT the cleaning chemicals. The hot water also more effectively breaks down or dilutes the chemical while it's extracting it. Yes, a little of the chemical may technically remain in the fabric but it's a much less dilution than when you were cleaning. Also, by using a light mist of the FINISHER spray at the end, you effectively neutralize any remaining cleaning agent in the fabric. Mechanical extraction is a very effective way to get much cleaner fabric faster but hand method is ok also if you don't have an extractor or you just want to do a "light" cleaning or refreshing of the fabric. Even if you have a wet-dry capable shop vac, you can effectively use that an an extractor for the final stage. Just manually spray the hot water into the area to neutralize or dilute the chemical and suck out the product. Extractors can be had from anywhere from around $150 to $2500 for the really high end units. Many detailers use the Bissel $150 unit with great success. If you want the best fabric cleaning experience, I highly recommend you invest in some sort of an extractor. They really do enhance the cleaning ability and they are well worth the price. Especially if you want to keep all the fabric-cloth-carpet surfaces of your vehicle clean for years to come. Next to a quality vacuum (A MUST for interior detailing), it's the best interior investment you can make related to vehicle cleaning. I will just mention a THIRD option or additional step which is a STEAMER. McCullough makes a great steamer for about $150 to $200 depending on the model and it does a fantastic job and produces plenty of steam for vehicle cleaning and sanitizing. You can add the steam once you have your chemical down and agitated and steam the area as the second step, followed by the extraction of the remaining chemicals or water. I actually do that method at least once in a while to SUPER clean all my fabric surfaces inside the vehicle. Just remember, use extreme caution when steaming the headliner as it could remove the glue holding it up. If you are a novice, best rule of thumb, DO NOT steam the headliner! Also keep the steamer away from gauges and buttons! If your going to add a steamer to the process, there are plenty of videos on YouTube on the subject and I would highly recommend you view them for some solid advice. A steamer, extractor, quality vacuum, and other tools are great additions and time savers for cleaning, but again, you can still do it the good old fashioned way.....elbow grease! To conclude.......P&S makes some absolutely fantastic products and they have some of the best prices on the market anywhere. I would dare say, they are the best value in vehicle detailing products....anywhere! I wish more companies would have the value and quality of products that P&S (And Renny Doyle collection) has. It would help the consumer to get products they need at an affordable price, yet, it would probably also increase the sales for the vendor too because more people could afford the products and get a better value....it's a win-win for everyone. Maybe someday more vendors will adopt this theory like P&S has! Thanks to P&S for offering quality products for fantastic prices to the masses.
ProsValue for your money GALLON sizes are not much more than the small bottles (BUY THE GALLONS!) Good for either professional detailers, or for the driveway "Weekend detailer" You can stock great products in gallon size for VALUE Pricing and keep costs low rendering higher profit Can be done by hand or you can add steam and an extractor to the process if you have access to them HIGHLY RECOMMEND any P&S or Renny Doyle Double Black products. They all work great.
As always Auto Geek sells great products!
All Double Black products work great and this product cuts through soiled interiors.